1930 Buffalo nickel obverse showing Native American chief and reverse showing bison, both sides

The 1930 Nickel Value Guide:
What's Your Buffalo Nickel Worth?

A 1930-S Buffalo nickel graded MS-67+ by PCGS sold at Heritage Auctions in 2017 for $30,550 — yet most worn examples are worth just $1–$5. The difference? Mint mark, condition, and the elusive Two-Feather error. Use the free calculator below to pinpoint your coin's exact range.

★★★★★ 4.8 / 5  ·  Based on 1,437 collector ratings
Check My 1930 Nickel Value →
$30,550
Top recorded sale (1930-S MS-67+, Heritage 2017)
28.3M
Total nickels struck in 1930 (P + S combined)
5
Known error varieties for the 1930 issue
< 75
1930-S coins certified MS-66 or better (PCGS + NGC)

1930 Buffalo Nickel Value Chart at a Glance

For a thorough step-by-step walkthrough that helps you identify and grade every 1930 Buffalo nickel variety, see this complete 1930 nickel identification and reference guide. The table below gives you a fast overview of current market ranges across all five varieties and all four major condition tiers.

Variety Worn (Good) Circulated (Fine–XF) Uncirculated (MS-60+) Gem (MS-65+) Rarity
1930-P (No Mint Mark) $1 – $2 $3 – $15 $30 – $95 $255 – $3,150 Common
1930-S (San Francisco) ★ $2 – $5 $8 – $69 $50 – $150 $475 – $12,000+ Scarce
Two-Feather Error ⚑ $30 – $65 $65 – $576 $800 – $2,750 $2,750 – $3,300+ Rare
DDO (FS-101/102/103) $15 – $30 $50 – $390 $350 – $540 $1,763 – $2,395+ Rare
DDR (FS-801/802/803) $20 – $45 $88 – $390 $400 – $1,540 $1,806 – $3,290+ Rare

★ Signature variety — highlighted in gold. ⚑ Rarest variety — highlighted in red. Values are market ranges; certified PCGS/NGC examples trade at the upper end.

🪙 CoinKnow lets you cross-check these ranges on the go by scanning your coin's photo for an instant grade estimate — a coin identifier and value app.

Quick Navigation

Jump to any section of this guide:

The Valuable 1930 Buffalo Nickel Errors — Complete Guide

The 1930 Buffalo nickel was struck during the onset of the Great Depression, when die maintenance at both Philadelphia and San Francisco was stretched thin. That pressure produced a fascinating set of mint errors — from dramatic die-polishing mishaps to catalogued doubled dies — each of which can transform an ordinary five-cent coin into a hundred- or thousand-dollar collectible. Use the sidebar to jump to any variety.

Two-Feather Error

MOST FAMOUS $65 – $3,300+
1930 Buffalo nickel Two-Feather error close-up showing headdress with only two feathers visible

The Two-Feather error is the crown jewel of 1930 Buffalo nickel varieties. It occurred when mint workers over-polished the dies to remove clash marks or other surface imperfections, and in doing so accidentally removed the innermost, third feather from the Native American chief's headdress. That small feather normally sits nestled between the back of the neck and the longest feather of the headdress.

Most Two-Feather varieties originate from the San Francisco Mint (1930-S), though Philadelphia coins can also exhibit this error. Die polishing was a common practice used to extend die life, but workers sometimes applied it too aggressively. This particular error belongs to a larger family of 27 recognized Two-Feather varieties spanning the Buffalo nickel series from 1913 through 1930.

Collectors prize the Two-Feather because the diagnostic is visible to the naked eye — no loupe required once you know what to look for. A standard coin shows three feathers; spotting only two immediately signals something unusual. Circulated Two-Feather nickels typically sell for $65–$576 depending on grade and eye appeal, while mint-state examples are significantly more valuable, ranging from approximately $2,750–$3,300 at auction.

How to spot it

Count the feathers in the headdress under good lighting. A normal coin has three; if only two are present and the innermost position between the neck braid and the long feather is smooth and flat, you have a candidate. Confirm with a 10× loupe by looking for a polished, featureless area where the third feather should emerge.

Mint mark

Primarily 1930-S (San Francisco), though Philadelphia (no mint mark) examples are also known. No 1930-D exists — Denver did not strike Buffalo nickels that year.

Notable

Part of a 27-variety Two-Feather family catalogued across the entire Buffalo nickel series. The 1930-S Two-Feather is the most frequently encountered late-series example. Mint-state specimens are scarce; an MS-65 example is a strong candidate for Heritage Auctions where comparable two-feather varieties have achieved four-figure prices.

Doubled Die Reverse (DDR) — FS-801, FS-802, FS-803

MOST VALUABLE $88 – $3,290+
1930 Buffalo nickel DDR error close-up showing doubled FIVE CENTS lettering on the reverse

The Doubled Die Reverse (DDR) varieties are the most monetarily rewarding errors in the entire 1930 Buffalo nickel series. Three distinct DDR varieties are recognized: FS-801, FS-802, and FS-803, each the result of misaligned die hubbing during production at the Philadelphia Mint. During manufacturing, the working die must be pressed multiple times against the master hub to transfer the full design — if the die shifted even fractionally between impressions, doubling is locked permanently into every coin struck from it.

DDR errors on 1930 Buffalo nickels appear most prominently in the denomination "FIVE CENTS" at the bottom of the reverse. The doubling can also affect "UNITED STATES OF AMERICA" or "E PLURIBUS UNUM," and some varieties show doubled lines along the buffalo's back, legs, or tail. The FS-801 is the most widely known of the three DDR varieties.

The collector premium for DDR varieties is substantial and well-supported by auction records. Circulated examples start around $88 for lower grades, and better circulated specimens can reach $390 or more. The top auction result for DDR FS-801 is $3,290 for an MS-66 example sold in October 2014. An MS-65+ DDR FS-802 brought $1,806 in December 2018, showing that even the secondary varieties command serious money at the gem level.

How to spot it

Focus your 10× loupe directly on "FIVE CENTS" at the reverse bottom. Doubled letters will appear thickened, with a faint secondary impression — sometimes described as a "shadow" — just inside or outside each primary letter stroke. Also examine "E PLURIBUS UNUM" along the upper reverse for corroborating doubling on the "LU" letters.

Mint mark

Philadelphia (no mint mark) only. All three catalogued DDR varieties — FS-801, FS-802, and FS-803 — originate from the Philadelphia Mint facility.

Notable

FS-801 top auction: $3,290 for MS-66 (October 2014). FS-802 MS-65+ brought $1,806 in December 2018. An MS-62 DDR sold for $1,540 in November 2013, confirming that even lower-grade certified DDR coins command meaningful premiums. Catalogued in the Cherrypickers' Guide (FS-801 through FS-803).

Doubled Die Obverse (DDO) — FS-101, FS-102, FS-103

RAREST $50 – $2,395+
1930 Buffalo nickel DDO error showing doubled date numerals 1930 under magnification

The Doubled Die Obverse (DDO) on the 1930 Buffalo nickel results from the working die being "hubbed" — pressed against the master hub — twice at a slightly different rotational angle, permanently locking the doubling into every coin struck from that die. Three distinct DDO varieties exist for the 1930 Philadelphia issue, catalogued as FS-101, FS-102, and FS-103 in the Cherrypickers' Guide, the authoritative reference used by variety collectors.

Doubling on DDO varieties appears most prominently on the date numerals "1930" and in the LIBERTY lettering on the obverse. Some specimens display noticeable doubling on the lips, chin, and eye area of the Native American chief's portrait. Under a 10× loupe aimed at the date, look for a slight ghosting or secondary impression running alongside the primary design elements. The FS-103 variety is the strongest and most frequently attributed.

Circulated 1930 DDO nickels sell for $50–$390 depending on the strength of the doubling and the coin's overall grade. Uncirculated examples command $350–$540 for standard mint-state grades. High-grade certified specimens bring impressive results at major auction houses: an MS-66 DDO FS-103 sold for $2,395 in 2018, and a second MS-66 example of the same variety brought $1,763 in January 2013. An MS-65 example fetched $552 in October 2017.

How to spot it

Aim a 10× loupe directly at the date "1930" — specifically the "3" and "0" digits, which show the strongest doubling. Look for a soft shadow or a distinct secondary impression alongside each numeral. Then check the LIBERTY lettering and the chief's facial features (lips, chin, cheekbone) for corroborating doubling marks.

Mint mark

Philadelphia (no mint mark) only. Three varieties are catalogued — FS-101, FS-102, and FS-103 — all from Philadelphia. The FS-103 is the strongest and most sought-after of the three.

Notable

FS-103 in MS-66 sold for $2,395 at auction in 2018; a second MS-66 example brought $1,763 in January 2013; an MS-65 FS-103 fetched $552 in October 2017. All three DDO varieties are catalogued in the Cherrypickers' Guide as FS-101, FS-102, and FS-103 by CONECA attribution.

Repunched Mint Mark (RPM)

BEST KEPT SECRET $15 – $200+
1930-S Buffalo nickel RPM error close-up showing doubled or repunched S mint mark on reverse

The Repunched Mint Mark (RPM) variety occurs on 1930-S Buffalo nickels when the "S" punch was applied to the working die more than once, and the secondary impression was slightly misaligned relative to the first. During this era, mint mark punches were individually hand-stamped into each working die by mint employees — a time-consuming and imprecise process that frequently produced repunched examples across the Buffalo nickel series.

On the 1930-S RPM, the secondary "S" impression typically appears slightly north, south, or rotated from the primary mark. Under 10× magnification, the doubling of the curved serif strokes on the "S" letter is the key diagnostic. Strong RPM examples show a visually distinct second "S" impression that is immediately recognizable without needing to compare to reference images, while minor RPM varieties require careful examination and side-by-side comparison with the Cherrypickers' Guide.

RPM varieties are popular among specialists who assemble complete die-variety sets of Buffalo nickels. The premium over a normal 1930-S is modest in lower circulated grades — perhaps 20–50% above standard values — but increases meaningfully in higher grades where surface preservation allows the repunched mark to be clearly photographed and verified. Circulated RPM examples typically sell for $15–$50 in Fine to XF grades, while uncirculated specimens with strong repunching can exceed $150–$200 in the collector market.

How to spot it

Examine the "S" mint mark on the reverse (below "FIVE CENTS") under a 10× loupe. Look for a secondary curved impression — specifically, a faint extra serif or additional curvature of the "S" strokes that doesn't belong to a single clean letter. Rotate the coin under a raking light source to maximize shadow contrast on the repunched area.

Mint mark

1930-S (San Francisco) only. The RPM variety exists exclusively on S-mint coins since the Philadelphia Mint used no mint mark and Denver did not strike nickels in 1930.

Notable

RPM varieties for the 1930-S are referenced in die-variety resources including the Cherrypickers' Guide and Wexler's doubled die and RPM listings. While no single RPM example has achieved a landmark auction record, strong examples in MS-63 or higher regularly attract premiums of 40–80% above standard 1930-S values at specialized numismatic sales and online venues.

Die Crack & Cud Errors

SLEEPER $10 – $300+
1930 Buffalo nickel die crack error showing raised ridge line on coin surface near the rim

Die crack and cud errors occur when the hardened steel dies used to strike coins develop fractures during production runs. As a die ages and is subjected to tens of thousands of strike impacts, metal fatigue causes hairline cracks to form, and these cracks transfer to every coin struck thereafter as raised, irregular ridges on the coin's surface. The 1930 Buffalo nickel, produced during a period of extended die use under Depression-era budget constraints, exhibits a number of interesting die crack examples.

Minor die cracks appear as thin raised lines crossing the design, often beginning near the rim where metal stress concentrates first. These are distinguishable from post-mint scratches because cracks are always raised — metal is pushed up above the surface — while scratches are incised, pressing metal down. A "cud" error is the dramatic end-stage: a section of the die breaks away entirely, leaving a blank, raised blob of metal in its place on struck coins. Major cuds affecting a significant portion of the design are the most sought-after examples.

The premium for minor die cracks is modest — typically $5–$25 above normal coin value — and most collectors view them as interesting varieties rather than major errors. Dramatic die cracks crossing significant portions of the design can reach $50–$150 depending on size and visibility. Major cud errors on 1930 Buffalo nickels, where the break affects a recognizable part of the portrait or bison, bring $100–$300 depending on the size of the affected area and the coin's overall grade and preservation.

How to spot it

Look for raised lines on the coin's surface under a 10× loupe — metal ridges that stand above the flat field. Die cracks follow irregular, curving paths and cannot be removed by rubbing. Compare multiple 1930 Buffalo nickels: if the same crack pattern appears on several coins from your collection, the crack originated in the die, not from post-mint damage.

Mint mark

Both P (Philadelphia, no mint mark) and S (San Francisco) dies can exhibit cracks. Neither mint is exclusively associated with die crack errors on the 1930 issue — it depends entirely on the specific die pair used.

Notable

Die cracks on Buffalo nickels are frequently encountered but seldom dramatic. The most collectible examples feature cracks bisecting the portrait or the bison on the reverse. A major cud affecting the date or portrait area would be a genuinely rare find worthy of attribution and submission to PCGS or NGC for variety certification and population registry inclusion.

Think you spotted one of these errors on your 1930 Buffalo nickel?

Run the Value Calculator →

1930 Buffalo Nickel Mintage & Survival Data

Group of 1930 Buffalo nickels in various grades from worn to uncirculated, showing range of preservation
Mint Facility Mint Mark Mintage Status MS-65+ Pop (PCGS + NGC est.)
Philadelphia None (blank) 22,849,000 Common in circulated grades ~2,000 certified at MS-65 or better
San Francisco S 5,435,000 Semi-scarce; condition rarity in gem grades < 75 pieces at MS-66 or better
Denver D None struck No 1930-D exists
TOTAL 28,284,000

Composition Specifications

  • Metal: 75% Copper, 25% Nickel
  • Weight: 5.000 grams
  • Diameter: 21.2 mm
  • Thickness: 1.95 mm
  • Edge: Plain (no reeding)
  • Designer: James Earle Fraser
  • Struck: 1930 (business strikes only; no proof)
  • Series: Buffalo (Indian Head) Nickel, 1913–1938

Note: The U.S. Mint did not produce proof Buffalo nickels in 1930. Proof strikes exist only for 1913–1916 and 1936–1937. Any coin offered as a "1930 proof" is not a genuine U.S. Mint issue.

How to Grade Your 1930 Buffalo Nickel

1930 Buffalo nickel grading strip showing four coins from Good to Mint State condition side by side

Good (G-4 to G-6)

Heavy overall wear. The date is readable but numerals may be partially merged. The Indian's portrait is flat and smooth — feather outlines barely visible. The buffalo's horn is entirely gone. Lettering merges with the rim in places. Worth $1–$5 depending on mint mark.

Fine / Very Fine (F-12 to VF-30)

Major details visible but soft. Hair strands above the braid show some separation. The buffalo's horn is at least partially visible (¾ must show for F-12 per ANA standards). The tail tip shows a split. Worth $3–$69 depending on mint mark — the range widens sharply for the 1930-S.

Extremely Fine (EF-40 to AU-58)

Only the highest points show slight wear. Indian's cheekbone retains most luster; hair detail is crisp. Buffalo shoulder still shows muscle definition. The horn is sharp and complete. About Uncirculated examples show just a trace of friction. Worth $15–$150 across both mints.

Mint State (MS-60 to MS-67+)

No wear anywhere; original mint luster intact. Examine the cheekbone and buffalo's hip under rotation — wear shows as luster breaks. Full Horn designation (complete, sharp horn) adds dramatically to value. An MS-67+ 1930-S sold for $30,550 in 2017. Strike quality is critical: a Full Horn, sharply struck example can be worth 2–5× a weakly struck coin of the same grade.

Pro Tip — Full Horn & Strike Quality: Buffalo nickels are notorious for weak strikes. The ANA grading standards require the full horn to be present for a Very Fine-20 grade, and at least three-quarters for a Fine-12. On any 1930 Buffalo nickel you're evaluating, always check the bison's shoulder on the reverse first — it is the single most important grading checkpoint separating About Uncirculated from true Mint State. Many coins show striking weakness here even in uncirculated condition, which is a mint characteristic rather than circulation wear. Understanding this distinction prevents significantly overpaying.

🔬 CoinKnow lets you verify your grade assessment by comparing your coin's photo against a database of certified examples — a coin identifier and value app.

Two-Feather Self-Checker

The Two-Feather error is the most visually distinctive 1930 Buffalo nickel variety — and one of the most counterfeited by casual collectors misidentifying worn coins. Use this checklist to determine whether your coin is a genuine Two-Feather specimen or a normal example with worn or damaged feathers.

Side-by-side comparison of normal 1930 Buffalo nickel with three headdress feathers versus Two-Feather error with only two feathers

Normal 1930 Buffalo Nickel

  • Three distinct feathers visible in the headdress
  • Innermost feather sits between the neck braid and the long outer feather
  • All three feathers have defined quill lines and barb texture
  • The space between neck and longest feather shows feather detail, not smooth metal
↕ vs ↕

Two-Feather Error Coin

  • Only two feathers are visible; the third (innermost) is absent
  • The area between the neck braid and the long feather is smooth and flat — polished away
  • The two remaining feathers are well-defined with crisp quill lines
  • The flat/polished zone has a slightly different luster from die polishing

Check all that apply to your coin:

Got a Two-Feather result? Find out exactly what it's worth by condition and mint mark.

Calculate My Coin's Value →

Free 1930 Nickel Value Calculator

Select your coin's mint mark, condition, and any known errors to get an instant value estimate based on current market data.

Step 1 — Select Mint Mark

Step 2 — Select Condition

Step 3 — Any Errors? (optional)

If you don't yet know your coin's mint mark, condition, or errors, there's a free 1930 Buffalo Nickel Coin Value Checker online tool that estimates value from uploaded photos — no coin knowledge required.

Describe Your 1930 Nickel for a Detailed Assessment

Not sure about your coin's grade or variety? Describe what you see in the text box below — our keyword analyzer will match your description to the most likely variety and provide a tailored assessment.

📋 Mention these things if you can

  • Mint mark (S below FIVE CENTS, or blank)
  • Number of feathers in headdress (2 or 3?)
  • Doubling on date "1930" or LIBERTY
  • Doubling on "FIVE CENTS" on the reverse
  • Overall condition: very worn, average, sharp

✅ Also helpful

  • Is the buffalo's horn fully intact?
  • Any raised ridge lines (die cracks)?
  • Does the "S" look doubled or show extra marks?
  • Has the coin been cleaned? (shiny but dull?)
  • Is the date fully readable or partially worn?

Where to Sell Your Valuable 1930 Buffalo Nickel

The best venue depends on your coin's value tier. A worn example worth $2 calls for a different approach than a gem-mint Two-Feather worth $3,000+.

🏛️ Heritage Auctions

The top venue for high-grade 1930 Buffalo nickels — especially the 1930-S in MS-65 or above, or any certified error variety. Heritage's dedicated numismatic audience and transparent auction structure routinely achieve record prices. The $30,550 MS-67+ 1930-S sold here in 2017. Minimum consignment thresholds apply; contact Heritage directly for coins valued above $500.

🛒 eBay

Ideal for mid-range examples — circulated 1930 and 1930-S nickels and lower-grade error coins. Check current sold prices and recent 1930 Buffalo nickel listings to benchmark what buyers are actually paying before you list. Always photograph both sides in sharp macro focus, and mention the mint mark and any error attribution in the title.

🏪 Local Coin Shop (LCS)

Fast and hassle-free for worn circulated examples worth under $20. Dealers typically pay 50–70% of retail for common dates. Bring the coin in a protective flip — never in PVC holders. An LCS is also a good first stop to get a free verbal assessment before deciding on a selling venue for higher-grade pieces.

💬 Reddit (r/Coins4Sale)

A collector-to-collector marketplace where you can avoid dealer markups entirely. Best for mid-range raw coins ($10–$200) where knowledgeable buyers will appreciate an honest description. Post clear macro photos of both sides; mention the date, mint mark, condition estimate, and any visible errors. Transactions are typically completed via PayPal G&S.

💡 Get It Graded First (for coins worth $50+): Any 1930-S in Extremely Fine condition or better, or any suspected Two-Feather, DDO, or DDR variety, should be submitted to PCGS or NGC before selling. A certified slab proves authenticity (especially important given the prevalence of fake added "S" mint marks), establishes an undisputed grade, and unlocks the highest buyer confidence — typically adding 30–80% to realized prices compared to equivalent raw coins.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much is a 1930 Buffalo nickel worth?
Most circulated 1930 Buffalo nickels (Philadelphia, no mint mark) are worth $1–$15 depending on condition. Uncirculated examples start around $30–$95. The scarcer 1930-S from San Francisco trades for $2–$69 in circulated grades and $50–$150 or more in uncirculated. Error varieties like the Two-Feather, DDO, and DDR can push values into the hundreds or thousands.
What is the most valuable 1930 nickel?
The highest recorded sale is a 1930-S graded MS-67+ by PCGS, which sold at Heritage Auctions on August 2, 2017 for $30,550. Error varieties also reach impressive peaks: an MS-66 DDR (FS-801) brought $3,290 in 2014, and an MS-66 DDO (FS-103) sold for $2,395. Two-Feather mint-state examples regularly trade between $2,750 and $3,300.
What is the Two-Feather error on a 1930 Buffalo nickel?
The Two-Feather variety occurs when mint workers over-polished the dies to remove clash marks, accidentally removing the innermost, third feather from the Native American chief's headdress. A normal coin shows three feathers; the Two-Feather shows only two. Most examples come from the San Francisco Mint (1930-S), though Philadelphia coins can also exhibit this error. Circulated examples sell for $65–$576; mint state examples range from $2,750–$3,300.
Where is the mint mark on a 1930 Buffalo nickel?
The mint mark appears on the reverse of the coin, directly below the denomination "FIVE CENTS." A small "S" indicates the San Francisco Mint. Philadelphia coins have no mint mark — the space below "FIVE CENTS" is blank. Denver did not produce Buffalo nickels in 1930, so there is no 1930-D variety.
How many 1930 Buffalo nickels were made?
The Philadelphia Mint struck 22,849,000 Buffalo nickels in 1930, while the San Francisco Mint produced 5,435,000 — a roughly 4-to-1 ratio. No nickels were struck at Denver that year. Total production was just under 28.3 million coins, reflecting reduced output during the early years of the Great Depression following the 1929 stock market crash.
Is a 1930 Buffalo nickel silver?
No. The 1930 Buffalo nickel contains no silver. It is composed of 75% copper and 25% nickel, weighs 5 grams, and measures 21.2 mm in diameter. Its value is entirely numismatic — based on condition, mint mark, and variety — not on precious metal content. The coin's melt value is only a few cents.
What does a Full Horn mean on a 1930 Buffalo nickel?
The Full Horn designation describes a 1930 Buffalo nickel where the bison's horn is completely and sharply struck, showing no flatness or wear at the tip. Because Buffalo nickel dies wore quickly, many coins left the mint with a weak horn even in uncirculated condition. Well-struck examples with a Full Horn can command two to five times the value of weakly struck coins at the same numerical grade.
What are the doubled die varieties for the 1930 nickel?
Three DDO (Doubled Die Obverse) varieties exist, catalogued as FS-101, FS-102, and FS-103 in the Cherrypickers' Guide. Doubling appears most prominently on the date and LIBERTY lettering. Three DDR (Doubled Die Reverse) varieties — FS-801, FS-802, and FS-803 — show doubling primarily in "FIVE CENTS." An MS-66 DDO FS-103 sold for $2,395 and an MS-66 DDR FS-801 brought $3,290 at auction.
Should I get my 1930 Buffalo nickel professionally graded?
PCGS or NGC grading is recommended for any 1930 Buffalo nickel valued above $50. For the 1930-S in any Mint State grade, or for suspected error varieties like the Two-Feather or doubled die, certification is essential. Third-party grading authenticates the coin (especially important given fake added "S" mint marks), confirms the numerical grade, and ensures the coin is problem-free — all of which maximize resale value.
What is a dateless 1930 Buffalo nickel worth?
A Buffalo nickel where the date has worn away entirely is worth only $0.05 to $0.50 as a novelty or filler coin, regardless of the original year. The date sat on a high-relief area of the design that wore down rapidly in circulation, making dateless specimens very common. These coins have no meaningful collector premium and cannot be attributed to any specific year or mint.

Ready to find out what your 1930 nickel is worth?

Use the free calculator — takes under 60 seconds, no signup required.

Get My 1930 Nickel Value →